1 14

Modelwerks

D-18 Gull STL File Download

D-18 Gull STL File Download

$ 18.00 USD
$ 18.00 USD
Sale Sold out
Downloadable STL files for custom upgrades parts.

The new and improved D-18 Gull kit. It’s a revamp of our original one from a few years ago.

The kit is broken down into a TOS-Era version that is fairly accurate to the classic artwork, and then my interpretation of a movie-era version of it. So you get two new kits to print! 

The Movie-Era Version has revamped the feather patterns, redid the nacelles, detailed the bridge module, neck, impulse engines, disruptor banks, windows, and an added a shuttlebay with some tiny shuttles. 

The TOS-Era version of the D-18, is clean and streamlined, with minimal paneling added shuttlebay, and TOS style nacelles. 

Both TOS-Era and Movie-Era versions have either solid nacelles or ones that have been segmented for lighting. 


· Files are provided in unsupported version, for your convenience. Create your own support frames to suit your particular printer.
· Files are provided "as is" and have been tested on an SLA printer. We cannot guarantee STL files are optimized for every software system or 3D printer. We are not obligated or able to provide tech support for files used on your particular printer.

 

 

View full details

Fallout Hobbies Field Manual

STL Printing Field Manual

Everything you need to print, assemble, and finish your Fallout Hobbies STL files with fewer failed prints and better tabletop results.

Printing & Materials

Choose resin for minis. Resin printers are still the gold standard for high-detail miniatures, bits, weapons, and accessories. ABS-like resin is a strong default for durability. A useful shop-tested mix is adding about 20-30% Siraya Tech Tenacious resin into your primary resin to improve toughness.

FDM printing has improved significantly for minis, but it still takes patience. Tree supports, low layer heights around 0.10 mm, and high infill usually give the best shot at clean results.

Support & Orientation

Perfect your supports. Over-supporting is usually better than watching a print fail six hours in. Auto-supports in Lychee Slicer or Chitubox are useful, but always manually check for islands, long flat surfaces, and the undersides of limbs or weapons.

Manual orientation matters. Before generating supports, rotate models roughly 15-40 degrees to reduce suction forces, improve drainage, and move support scars away from visible faces.

Assembly & Post Processing

Safety first. Uncured resin is toxic. Use nitrile gloves, wear a respirator when appropriate, keep the space very well ventilated, and try to keep your printing area above 73°F / 23°C.

Clean and dry fully. Wash prints in isopropyl alcohol, let them dry completely, then cure under UV light. Curing wet prints can leave that chalky white residue nobody asked for.

Assembly. Gorilla Super Glue Gel works well for fast, strong assembly.

Plastic Putty: Products like Vallejo Plastic Putty are excellent for filling thin, small gaps on plastic miniatures and models. It can be applied with a toothpick or cotton swab and easily smoothed out.

Epoxy Putties: Putties like Milliput or Magic Sculpt are two-part formulas. They offer superb control and can be sculpted or carved perfectly, making them an industry standard for miniatures.

Liquid Plastic Cement: For gaps between two plastic pieces, applying a liquid cement (such as Tamiya Extra Thin) melts the adjacent plastics together. The resulting melted plastic acts as its own gap filler.

Terrain & Large Scale Prints

Use FDM where it shines. Large terrain, bunkers, pipes, craters, modular tiles, organizers, and hobby aids are often better suited to FDM than resin.

Clean up the print. For small FDM defects or elephant foot on first layers, use a sharp hobby knife, box cutter, sanding tools, or a micro grinder to smooth flat surfaces.

Magnetize modular builds. Magnets can help stacked buildings and multi-level terrain stay stable during games.

FAQ

Why did an STL I wanted disappear from your site?

If an STL you were looking for is gone, it's almost always because of one thing: a certain large, litigious manufacturer that dominates this hobby has a long history of going after small creators and treating the very fans who built this community as a threat rather than the lifeblood it is. Even designs that company doesn't produce or sell themselves can land a small shop like ours in their crosshairs.

When that risk shows up, we take the file down rather than gamble with the business and our ability to keep serving you. We'd rather pull a product than put the shop at risk for making something hobbyists genuinely want.

So if a file vanished, that's why. We're not happy about it either.

Can I sell prints made from these STL files?

No. These files are for personal use only unless you have purchased and are following the Fallout Hobbies merchant license terms.

Can I resize the files?

Yes, for your own personal hobby projects. Resizing does not change the license terms or grant resale rights.

Are these physical products?

No. STL products are digital downloads for 3D printing. No physical printed parts are shipped unless the product page specifically says otherwise.

What printer should I use?

For high-detail miniatures, bits, weapons, and accessories, resin printers usually produce the cleanest results. FDM printers are excellent for large terrain, storage, and scenery pieces.